DRESS LP | Image Consultant, Personal Stylist, & Fashion Columnist

Adventures in Japanese Raw Denim

Posted on April 19, 2013 by Lena

Mike has been wearing raw denim for years now, yet I was never really intrigued with the whole idea. The concept of not washing your jeans totally turned me off. I don’t understand showering, then putting on a pair with 9 month’s worth of dirt.

But lately, Japanese raw denim styles for women have been so in-my-face that I needed to do some investigating. It started with the white denim ankle pant by Chimala that Madewell is carrying.

Chimala denim for Madewell

The very deceiving thing about this photo, is that it’s taken from the side, so you really can’t tell what the fit is like; I’m imagining it’s a looser/boyfriend fit. The very disappointing thing about these jeans is that they are not available in stores. I understand from a business standpoint not wanting to stock a ton of white Japanese denim—in an effort to avoid over forecasting and being stuck with extra product. But from a buyer’s perspective, how can you possibly expect anyone to pay $386 for a pair of jeans that they can’t try on first? Especially denim for women (we always need to try on).

So, there will be no trying before buying. Must move on.

Next, I head to Nordstrom. As you know, they will bend over backwards to get whatever size and style in which you show an interest. After an unexpected dressing room conversation with an employee about how she eats when bored, she suggested I head to the men’s section to try on their styles as they have more options. Have you ever thought about wearing a man’s pant? I have never. Shirts, sure. But pants just seemed way too big, boxy, for boys only.

Meet (another) Mike. This guy is so into raw denim! I was impressed by how much he knew, not just about what they carried, but about the ‘culture’ in general. Currently in his early 20s, he’s been breaking in his pairs since age 14—really beating them up and earning every mark, fad and rip through aggressive inline [skating].

I tell him about how I have a feeling raw denim isn’t for women, given the heavy nature of the pant (12-17oz!) and its sturdy appearance. (Do you know any woman that wants to be called sturdy?)

* Quick note: those who love raw denim do so because you personalize the pairs your own. You buy them raw, and the pair conforms to your shape and movement, hence the no washing. Some people put an item in their back pocket, for example, so that over time, the imprint embeds itself into the denim, becoming part of the jean’s design. Others take to methods like beach washing!

He tells me about Nudie Jeans—the the Swedish brand that is unisex. He asks for my size and then replies that he is the same. I laugh, “No way. There is no freakin’ way that these are going to fit me then! I have hips, mister!” “I’m so much skinnier than you!” he responds. It was such an odd thing to say to a woman (that you are selling to), yet he said it in the happiest of tones, that I couldn’t be mad. ha. (And it was true.)

This also is a good example of how size doesn’t matter, shape does. I’m wearing the same brand as Mike. His are broken in; I can’t even button mine! Nice.

They are so stiff and I’m feeling overheated in them. I can’t imagine wearing these in the spring/summer.

Mike at Nordstrom orders in a couple other brands and sizes. I return the next week to try those. Still a no go. At this point, I’m thinking:

1. The beauty of raw jeans is that you break them in. I don’t want breaking in. I need fabric with stretch.

2. Button fly fronts remind me of my Bongo jean shorts when I was 10 years old.

3. Pockets that pass your butt look better on guys.

4. If I’m going to wear a pair of slouchy jeans, then they’ll be my super comfortable COH boyfriend jeans, not literally my boyfriend’s jeans (now husband).

button fly front raw denim A.P.C

My last effort was to check out Naked & Famous.

NakedandFamousDenim.com

They have 5 different fits and most have elastane—which is what I was searching for as it gives stretch and movement when wearing. But then it became, if they aren’t ‘stiff’ how can I mold them and make them my own like my new skater friend?

Caruso Caruso Birmingham, Michigan

The answer I realized, as I ran my hands over a pair of Mother jeans…is that I don’t want a tough wearing pair of jeans that I have to freeze and work at creating. I like a super soft feel that I can dress up, dress down and sit Indian style in. If you do too, I highly recommend Mother. The material reminds me of a soft pillow case—heavenly! And…the exact opposite of raw denim.

Sorry Mikes—you two keep molding your pairs. I look forward to your photos (as the months and years (!) go by.)

P.S. For ladies wanting to break in a pair of raw denim, definitely check out Naked & Famous. They have lots to choose from and are much more comfortable than other brands.

Posted in Stories, Style Advice, Where To Shop | Tagged A.P.C, button fly jeans, Caruso Caruso, Chimala, COH boyfriend jeans, Japanese raw denim, Madewell, Mother, Naked & Famous, Nordstrom, Nudie Jeans, selvage denim, shopbop | Leave a comment

Pro Athletes with Style

Posted on April 3, 2013 by Lena

It used to be that you only saw a handful of guys in the NHL, NBA, NFL and MLB that were into clothes. Now, professional athletes are being looked at for their style more than ever. In addition to playing their sport, they have become investors in fashion brands or even started their own line.

You now see players being photographed during that ‘short catwalk’ from the locker room to the bus. And although most of these particular stars claim they don’t put much thought into it, their outfits suggest otherwise.

Photo: gq.com

It all makes sense though. A piece of clothing, pair of shoes or an accessory, always sells more if the potential customer can see it on an actual person. This is why you have product placement, on celebrities for example. The NBA seems to be getting the most fashion attention predominately due to the nature of the sport. In basketball, you can see each player throughout the entire game. You can see his every move, his emotions…and his shoes! There aren’t any helmets, so you get a better connection.

Men are visual; they need to see the look all put together. When I’m having custom clothes created for a client, I often here, ‘I like that material, but what will it look like as a full suit?’ or ‘That’s a very cool jacket, what kinds of shirts can I wear with it?’

We now have gorgeous look books that give guys ideas on how to wear the clothing. But before we had these, I used to carry around an orange binder with magazine tears. I did this so each client could see how: a trimmer fit actually makes you look more defined (both for skinny and not-so-skinny men), if you treat checks like solids, it’s easier to pick ties that work with it and so on. Now, we have lots of pro athlete pictures to choose from, and their images resonate more than that of a male model.

While I’m always into people discovering their style and expanding their business opportunities, I cringed a little when reading that Kobe Bryant now calls himself the ‘Valentino of the NBA.’ (just like in high school, no one likes a self-given nickname) And it feels a bit odd to hear a man say that he’s never worn a look more than once. Seems like I have to get over these things though; no doubt there will be more ballers sitting front row at Lanvin.

http://www.esquire.com/blogs/mens-fashion/russell-westbrook-style-interview-040213?src=rss

Photo: esquire.com

Posted in Guy's Corner | Tagged ESPN the magazine, esquire.com, gq.com, guy's corner, Kobe Bryant, Lanvin, Men's Style, NBA, Oklahoma City, Russel Westbrook | 1 Comment

Inspiration from Istanbul

Posted on February 8, 2013 by Lena

We went on our honeymoon in August. Since then, I’ve been seeing so much about Istanbul in magazines. Maybe this is like when you never see X type of car on the road, then your friend gets that car, and you seem to see it everywhere!

From these magazines, Elle, InStyle and the United Hemispheres, there are images of Turkish landmarks—Topkapi Palace, Hagia Sophia and so on. The designers explain how these cultural highlights brought inspiration to their collections.

Photo: Hemispheres September 2012 issue

Photo: Elle magazine

Photo: InStyle November 2012 issue

Photo: Elle

I’ve finally gotten around to downloading my pictures—here are some highlights. I found the tourists in Turkey to be quite stylish. And I understand why this city is getting so much buzz, it really is inspiring—lots of colors…and apple tea!

Hey there! Look at that hat & shirt combo. Not your stereotypical tourist.

Snow leopard belt-what a fun accessory!

Throughout Greece & Turkey, I saw so many amazingly designed doors…and then had to take a picture next to all of them.

inside the Grand Bazaar

Turkish Delight!

Turkish serving trayLook-it all fits!

architecture of the Grand Bazaar Istanbul, Turkey

apple tea time! (and price negotiating)

Looks like bad place for a child to run around!

ridiculous…and angry looking adult mannequins

and creepy child mannequins

Turks are serious about their rug making tradition. It took this merchant a year to make this stool!

The most fashionable tourists of all! (hiking the Samaria Gorge on the island of Crete, Greece)

Posted in Stories, Where To Shop | Tagged Elle, grand bazaar, Hagia Sophia, InStyle, Istanbul, Michael Kors, Misela boutique, Narciso Rodriguez for Khol's, samaria gorge crete greece, Serra Turker, Topkapi Palace, Turkish Delight | Leave a comment

Camel Coat by Bacia

Posted on February 5, 2013 by Lena

My grandmother just celebrated her birthday. I’ve always spent a lot of time with her, but now, I’m more intentional about our time together. As many grandmas do, they remind you that they won’t be around forever. Mine laughs/states this matter-of-factly, while I get sad/nervous every time that statement is uttered.

Bacia’s (our family’s Polish slang for grandmother) house is stocked full of fabric—though she only sews for 3 customers now (me, my little sister and my mom). There’s chiffon and wool and lace and every color zipper and shape of button you can imagine.

When I was younger, we’d disagree on the length of my skirts and dresses; we’re on the same page with that now. (Not sure if I’m getting more grandma-like—or as she calls it “elegant” or if Bacia’s getting edgier- ha.) But for the past few years, instead of disagree, she would simply “misplace” the material and drawings I would create if she didn’t like them. She would then show me something random like a hunter green wool and say, “This is good quality! How about we make something with this?” I would then annoyingly reply, “Um, what about the red material I picked out last time?” Ironically, she never lost the material of the designs she liked. Sometimes we agreed on the creations, those were the clothes that got made.

As the years go by, I’ve started to take pictures of the custom clothing we make. (Of course, no sewing is done by me—-as I have no patience for that Singer!)

Today’s feature is a camel wool coat. It was finished yesterday. My grandma believes she started this almost 10 years ago; something always seemed to take priority instead—or the season’s changed too quickly.

Here’s a sneak peek on the process of real custom clothing, from my dressmaker.

Depending on what you’re having made, custom clothes require at least 3 fittings. We did multiple panels on the back side, for a slimming effect.

Determine the width of the collar, fit sleeves to body.

Notice the details: an extra seam on the shoulder adds interest to a solid colored coat.

Next fitting, finalize collar…

Designate button locations

That’s a pocket. No lining on the coat yet.

In a well-made coat, the lining isn’t completely sewn down at the bottom. It allows it to lay nicely. (This isn’t needed in a jacket/blazer, however.)

Ta-da! Gorgeous & warm lining!

And there you have it! The finished product! I should note that I actually wear the collar with one lapel tucked in–and there are no buttons on this coat, only inside hooks–that keeps it real clean looking. I should have probably taken a photo of that. Hmm…

Posted in Custom Creations, Stories | Tagged camel coat, custom clothing, custom creations, dressmaker, lena porter, singer sewing machine, stories, winter coat, wool | Leave a comment

“Nothing you really like is ever out of style.”

Posted on February 1, 2013 by Lena

How true is the quote in the picture below?

It seems, with any decision, the more options you have, the tougher it is to choose. I just got off the phone with a family member that is debating on where to go for med school. She is going nuts with having to make the right decision. “Yesterday someone said to me, ‘Well, at least you have options—that’s good.’ F options! They stress me out even more!” Haven’t we all felt like this before? Of course we have, isn’t that where the term, ignorance is bliss stems from? At least that’s how I’ve always interpreted it.

When you don’t know what’s out there, when you don’t have options, it all seems easier. True, life isn’t as interesting that way…but when you are told you are to do something, even if you don’t like it, you just deal with it. When you are told the world is your oyster and you can be/have/do whatever you put your mind to, an environment of anxiety can take over. (Even though, the thought is to encourage a person.)

With so much information quickly available to us, it’s easy to get stressed out about making “the right” decision. You see this happen in fashion too. Last night was the Trend Report at our Fashion Group International meeting. Have you ever bought something solely because you knew it was a trend? (and might have been unsure if you really liked it/looked good in it) You were inundated with images of that pant style, or that color of the season, through magazines and online. The next thing you know, you’ve bought that “must have” and it’s sitting in a bag on your bedroom floor. The world is your oyster phrase and fashion websites have something in common—both are meant to inspire, not intimidate—but can leave a person feeling overwhelmed.

Just like this happy old lady in the picture, be faithful to your own tastes. If you are on the fence about a piece of clothing, leave it. If you are still thinking about it later (the next day?), go for it. Years ago, I read that Gwyneth Paltrow determines what she’s going to wear at the beginning of each season and doesn’t stray from the look. (the combo of ankle boots, slim cut pants and cardigans, for example) I remember her saying that it cut down the options and made dressing easier, especially since she then had small children (and didn’t have as much time to ponder outfits). Be faithful to what you really want and the rest will seem like clutter.

Photo: Real Simple magazine August 2011

Posted in Stories, Style Advice | Tagged decision making, fashion group international detroit, Gwyneth Paltrow, lena porter, stories, style advice, trend report | 1 Comment

She Wanted a Tummy Tuck, We Did One Better

Posted on January 15, 2013 by Lena

“I really want a tummy tuck, but my husband won’t let me.” I sat across the table from my new client as she excitedly described how all of her sisters have had plastic surgery and she’s been pining for a certain procedure. “My husband says, ‘I don’t want to loose my wife!’”—she laughs thinking about it. Like all fantastic husbands, he wants his wife to be happy and feel confident in herself…but the thought of surgery going wrong and loosing her, it’s just a risk he doesn’t want to take.

When a person decides to work with a stylist, there’s usually a change approaching, or some big push to (finally) put himself/herself first. It could be a new job or a promotion—you want to look and be perceived a certain way. Or maybe, like the woman mentioned above, you’ve been waiting to treat yourself. (For some, that’s a pedicure, others a new wardrobe or trip; life’s all about perspective, right?)

As we chatted, I was entertained by her story and very bluntly said that what she wanted to accomplish with a tummy tuck, we definitely could achieve through clothes. Really! (Husband, don’t worry, I’ve got this!)

Instead of yo-yoing around with your weight or bouncing from procedure to procedure, know that what you put on (clothes & makeup) can do all kinds of wonders for making…your midsection smaller, your nose narrower and so on.

Here’s a peek inside one of our dressing rooms.

Tips: The paneling on this shirt masks the tummy while bringing attention to her whole self (not just one area). The material is light and the length—an inch or so past her hip—is juuust right! The flower print is soft and not overbearing, which allows us to pair it with a bold/decoratively designed cardigan. Leave the cardigan open. The necklace is her own; remember we’re trying things on here. But it works. With so much pattern, you want everything else to be subdued. Add dark slim cut denim and the proportions work out well.

Tips: Yes, peplum is/was a trend, but the shape is actually quite classic. The stripes are narrow (read: slimming) and the diagonal cut is exactly where we want it. The jacket is shorter which allows her to show off her legs! To avoid major cleavage, always pair a v-neck with a scoop neck. This pretty lady is 5’2. When she wants to appear a bit taller, push up those sleeves, or wear 3/4″ length tops. This also lets her show off meaningful bracelets. By the way, she’s doing the ‘red carpet pose.’ This was once taught to me by a photographer; it’s what celebrities learn to appear their slimmest—paparazzi!

Posted in Style Advice | Tagged lena porter, peplum jacket, personal stylist, plastic surgery, style advice, tummy tuck | 1 Comment

3 Sites That Make Online Shopping Fun

Posted on January 4, 2013 by Lena

I read an article today about what customers are demanding. One of the points was that a brand has to be everywhere. (think: Facebook, Twitter, Pinterest etc) I agree with this to some extent. If you look up a company and they don’t have a website—I mean, not even a landing page—you think that’s pretty hack, right? Yes, as do I.

But what about the online shopping experience? What do we expect? Or better yet, what do we really like? Like so much that we end up buying something we would have otherwise passed by.

Think about buying online. Remember in the beginning, all you got was a one angle shot of that top and it had the ‘zoom’ feature. Next, came the incorporation of models. So you could see what it looked like on a human. Now, the online apparel experience has stepped it to even include how to wear that top based on your style (‘classic,’ ‘modern,’ ‘runway’) AND they show it to you via video.

Here are 3 well done examples of making online shopping easier & more fun.

1. Inspire dressing ideas

Possible 1st thoughts: I need a new pair of ankle pants. Oooh, I like the front slits! That pattern is fun. Wait, is she wearing two tops? Is that t-shirt twisted in the back? If yes, that’s terrible! Hmm, maybe I could layer two tops. (read product description) Ohh, that’s part of the pants. Interesting….I want it.

piximarket.com

2. Cross branding

Possible 1st thoughts: Yuk. This is pinky and flowery and kind of boxy…(click on product to see alternate images) How fun with that skirt! Ohhh and there’s some cut out detail too—I don’t mind showing some skin. (click to zoom) What is this gold glitter clutch all about? (click bag designer listed) So cute! So different! (click back) Are those clear heels?…with floating sequins? Do I hate this? (click shoe designer listed)…next thing you know, you’ve bought a pair of sequin sprayed PVC heels with a patent leather bow. ha. (That did not happen to me, by the way.)

netaporter.com

3. Show & tell

Mary Kate & Ashley Olsen are part of StyleMint. Not only do they provide Editor’s Notes for each piece, sometimes you can see how the whole ensemble works through video. Watch it here.

stylemint.com

Posted in Marketing, Where To Shop | Tagged cutout top, Diane von Furstenberg, floral print pant batik, kotur glitter clutch, Mary Kate & Ashley Olsen, mashable, Milly feather skirt, netaporter, online shopping, piximarket, sophia webster PVC heels, stylemint, windsor vest | Leave a comment

2 New Shops for Men in Detroit

Posted on December 14, 2012 by Lena

A veteran in men’s luxury apparel once told me, “Women shop because…they are happy, depressed, stressed, bored, need something to wear, want to reward themselves, have time to kill, it’s something fun to do with friends and so on. Men—they shop out of necessity, period.” If you think about that for a second, I bet you can identify with one, or possibly all of those reasons. And while there are men who truly enjoy window browsing, they are in the minority.

If you ask a guy why he doesn’t enjoy shopping, it usually relates to fighting through crowds of people or the overwhelming (at times, nauseating) feeling of being inside a multilevel mall. But what about boutique shopping?

In Detroit and in its suburbs, stores specifically for men did not exist…until recently. In 2012 a handful of quality independent shops have opened. Stores that could easily be plopped down on Abbot Kinney or Younge Street and fit right in. To out-of-staters reading this, you may be wondering ‘what’s the big deal,’ but to locals, you understand how cool is the introduction of these storefronts.

There are two shops in particular that I want to highlight:

1. Hugh. Their business card says it all.

Hugh Detroit business card

Wait—their website name better reflects the vibe: LOVEHUGHLONGTIME.com I liken it to an upscale Urban Outfitters’ home selection. It’s curated for the sophisticated man that is fun, not stuffy.

These wallets are part silk tie, part leather. Interesante, yes?

http://instagram.com/p/StKYEZtoAR/

2. The Detroit Mercantile Co. I think you have to be a man with scruff to enjoy the items inside. As soon as you walk in, you are greeted by raw denim (jeans) from the Detroit Denim Co. and a variety of rugged casual goods by Carhartt. All items are made in the U.S.A. (horray!) There’s also this gorgeous black and rose gold bike to look forward to, by the Detroit Bicycle Company.

This leads to my last point. With so many entrepreneurs and creative minds opening up businesses in the D, it seems like a fantastic time to scoop up that ‘Detroit X’ name. ‘X’ being whatever industry you’re into—Detroit Sofa, Detroit Fitness, Detroit Cookie Inc.—you get the point.

Photo: detroitdenim.us

So…no crowds, no escalators, just good merch to choose from. Check it out.

Posted in Guy's Corner, Local Love, Where To Shop | Tagged bachelor pad, Carhartt, Detroit Bicycle Company, Detroit Denim Co., Detroit Mercantile Co., gifts for men, guy's corner, Hugh, local love, made in USA, men's clothing store Detroit, men's shops, men's wallet | Leave a comment

Gifts Fur the Season

Posted on December 11, 2012 by Lena

(Mike thought of the title. )

Yesterday, I moved the remainder of my things into our house. You have these kinds of boxes too. They’re the ones that probably haven’t been opened since the day you packed them away in your parents’ storage room. The contents: photo albums, scrapbooks, school projects, notes from friends—that at the time, were ultra important and thus the reason for keeping them all these years. I remember thinking, ‘I’ll throw all this away when I get married’…because in high school, that seemed like the starting point of being in the ‘real world.’ (and thus, having no desire to dig through and reminisce?)

Oh there are some real gems in here! But I love my old friends too much to go public with them. So, I’m showing just this one. It is from a Junior Prom. We did not know the girl in her self-made teddy bear dress; she didn’t go to our school. Her dress was quite imaginative and so, the need for a group picture. Take a look at the tie-in with her date’s boutonniere!

I really just wanted to show that dress. However, at an honest attempt to connect that to a post, let’s talk about fur!

I adore fur. It’s one of the most luxurious textures. You can use it in your home, as a compliment to your outfit, or go real loud and make it dominate your look—just like this burgundy rabbit jacket from Elizabeth & James would.

Here are some other fur pieces I’m wanting at the moment. Do you love fur too? Does someone on your gift giving list? (Do you want to throw paint at this post?)

Intermixonline.com
You feel like a million bucks when you have this on. A high collar, buckles, fur, shearling and leather all rolled into one!

Shopbop.com

Barneys.com

: RestorationHardware.com
Remember bean bag chairs? Yes—so comfortable.

RestorationHardware.com
Look! You too can make a teddy bear dress! Ha.

Posted in Stories, Wish List | Tagged Barneys, Elizabeth and James burgundy fur rabbit coat, Eugenia Kim Janine Fur Earmuffs, Faux Fur Bean Bag Chair, fur, Hotel Particulier Shearling Jacket, Intermix, Lanvin fur cuff gloves, Luxe Faux Fur Bear Collection, Nordstrom, Restoration Hardware, shopbop, stories, Wish List | 1 Comment

How to Market Your Talents & Searching for Sugarman

Posted on November 13, 2012 by Lena

The other day I saw the most incredible movie. It made me pissed, puzzled and in awe.

Have you ever heard of [Sixto] Rodriguez? Probably not—most ALL of the United States hasn’t, though he is an American…and the biggest music icon in South African history. (He wrote his songs nearby the Cass City Cinema where I saw the documentary.)

What is this about?

Rodriguez made two albums (1970-71). He worked with the top producers in the world at the time; they were all blown away by his talent and lyrics. (Some compared him to, and said he was better than, Bob Dylan.) Ironically though, his songs flat out flopped in the U.S. and no one has reasons why.

The story goes on to say that a girl from Michigan went to visit her boyfriend in South Africa and brought the record. People were way into it and it spread like wildfire!

This was during Apartheid in South Africa—so the nation was “cut off” from the rest of the world. What the people listened to and read was strictly controlled by their government. Music shop owners told the cameras that Rodriguez’s songs were particularly influential because it gave people the ideals and courage to protest again what they believed was wrong (segregation).

Photo: sugarman.org

During the twenty-five years South Africans were enjoying his music, Rodriguez remained working odd jobs in construction and living a life of poverty. He played at dive bars in the city and the frequent patrons and bartenders interviewed said they thought he was homeless; he had a wondering soul.

In 1997, a couple fans started a quest to find Rodriguez after a friend who had been living in Los Angeles told them you couldn’t find his music anywhere. Long story short, they found him, dialed him up in Detroit from South Africa and told him he was more popular than Elvis. Can you imagine getting that call? Thinking your music career just never panned out, then hearing you’ve been such a huge influence on an entire nation for so long?

Photo: sugarman.org

There’s much to take away from this film: the power behind big media marketing (or lack there of), the stronger force of WOM (word of mouth)/recommendations from your peers, corrupt people, honest people, how the world can be so big and isolated and also so small and easy to connect. Now I’m not trying to be a student writing a review for class, but I think there’s something we all can use from this movie to make ourselves better, happier people.

For example, I was recently interviewed by my Alma Mater and asked to give advice to their energetic fashion minds. Once that chat comes out in print, I’ll see what exactly I said, but I do remember encouraging them to make their passion known. If you are skilled at shooting unique photos, showcase it on Tumblr. Are you well-versed? Start a blog. Have a knack for trend forecasting? Get on Pinterest!

My point is that now, more than EVER before, you don’t have to hope and pray your record label ‘pushes’ your songs on the radio (Rodriguez), you can have your mom post you singing on You Tube and you’ll make millions! (Justin Bieber) Kidding—let’s not strive for that. But if you display your talent and continue to do what you love, doors will open and opportunities will present themselves.

Posted in Local Love, Marketing, Stories | Tagged Bob Dylan, Cass City Cinema, cold facts, Detroit, local love, Marketing, searching for sugarman, Sixto Rodriguez, south africa, stories | Leave a comment