Socks, Suits & Stitching: FAQ from the Boys

Remember in school you heard, “No question is a dumb question.” What may seem totally obvious to some is a major confusion to others. Here are some examples…because like your teacher used to say, “Someone probably has that same question.”

Cutting the stitching on suits:

Last weekend a client called me the morning of his wedding. We had J.Hilburn make him a gorgeous suit for his Big Day—black, single-breasted, two-button, hacking pockets, side vents, blue lining—to set him apart from the double breasted suits of his groomsmen. Let me preface by saying that this guy knows his stuff; he’s heard of the legendary Kiton suits, reads up on the latest & greatest and knows what he likes. This makes it all the more adorable when he frantically asks if he can cut the stitching off his left chest pocket—to accommodate a pocket square.

I know how it is, you may be wearing something so nice, or expensive, or custom and you really care about how you look. So the thought of messing that up makes you forget the things that you already know—basic things like: You need to cut the stitching inside your pocket to wear a pocket square and you MUST cut the stitching on the vents of your sport coat (regardless of if you have a side or center vent.)

Photo: Mr.Porter.com

Too tight freight:

I’ve seen both ends of this spectrum: the guy that (intentionally or unintentionally) wears his clothes really really close to his body (tight)…and conversely, the one who is drowning in his trousers, fearful of looking ‘too European.’ Change your shirt IF, you can see ALL of your pecs or ALL of your biceps. Change your pants, IF you can see the outline of your pockets (front or back). Or actually, if you can see anything…Change your shirt IF you can grab a handful of fabric on each side. Change your pants IF we have no idea where is your leg.

Match your belt & shoes, socks don’t matter:

Match your belt to your shoes. So that means owning a tan, black & brown belt (and shoes). Socks can be your little secret, or a conversation starter with that good looking girl sitting across from you at the airport.

brown belt & shoes Photo: JHilburn.com

tan belt & shoes-AG Jeans Photo: JHilburn.com

black belt & shoes Photo: JHilburn.com

P.S. J.Hilburn made the Forbes list of most promising companies!

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